The Sto³owe or Table Mountains, named so because of their unique (in Poland) plateau structure, occupy the South Western corner of Poland and continue across the border into the Czech Republic. They are part of the Sudeten, one of the oldest mountains in Europe. They are built predominately of sandstone of varying hardness, rising in a high plateau over the surrounding gently rolling landscape, sculptured on top into fascinating rock formations, including natural labyrinths and unusual shapes. The three impressive labyrinths are established nature reserves, and are accessible by visitors trails and engineered paths.
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The highest peak of the Sto³owe is ¦nie¿nik, at the base of which is the Bear's Cave, so called after the remains of a cave bear had been discovered inside. The 1.6 miles of its underground corridors and chambers are open to visitors. To the South, the Góry Bystrzyckie have some relics of the Siberian type tundra vegetation. Interesting examples of wildlife include the (introduced) muflon and a black squirrel. Both mountain ranges are accessible by a series of well marked, colour coded trails. The visitors to this popular area included Chopin, Mendelssohn, Goethe and Churchill. |
Lying beneath the Sto³owe Mountains is the K³odzko valley with its string of spa towns, connected by a scenic railway line. The most popular and beautiful of the towns are Polanica Zdrój, Duszniki Zdrój and Kudowa Zdrój. They have in common mineral water sources and a mixture of parks, walks, tree lined streets and beautiful turn of the century buildings in a distinct Art Noveau style. Polanica Zdroj, located between Sto³owe and Bystrzyckie Mountains, is the first town in the K³odzko Valley. Preserved spa town architecture and controlled development meant that it has retained much of its original character (despite suffering in the 1997 floods). |
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Polanica Zdrój has a pedestrianised town centre, with a pleasant Promenade connecting the riverside to the spa park. The town centre offers a selection of eateries and shops. Some more unusual ones include the precious stone museum, with an adjacent jewellers/shop, the art gallery next to the café Lucja offers handmade glass, ceramics, tapestries and paintings for sale. On the Promenade, the Nostalgy gallery presents works of local professional and amateur artists. A shop offering local glass may well be worth a visit, since the local glass works at Szczytna produces glass of exceptional quality; a 360 piece set of crystal glass was commissioned for the coronation of the British Queen Elizabeth II. Over the summer months, chamber music and organ concerts are taking place in the Parish Church.
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The Park Zdrojowy is a picturesque park right in the town centre, and the starting point for walking trips into the countryside. Its features include the Water Wells, where you can amble around sampling local mineral waters, visit small boutiques, or take a rest in a local café. It has also got a fountain, which is illuminated at night and synchronised to music to produce a unique show. |
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Duszniki Zdrój is another spa town located on the railway line, which character is much the same as Polanica's: spa architecture and parks, preserved town centre with the Market Square and the Town Hall, a 17th century stone figure and a 17th century Clothmaker Hall. Much of the town's character is connected with Fryderyk Chopin, who used to stay here and played a couple of charity concerts. There is the 19th century Chopin's mansion in the Park Zdrojowy and the Chopin Festival Museum in the 16th century Old Chapel. The International Chopin Festival takes place in the Zdrojowy Park in August.
Duszniki has also got 1605 wooden paper mill, now a very good museum of paper making.
Kudowa Zdrój, the last town on the line, is a long, relaxed, picturesque spa town. Its particularly mild climate allows for some subtropical vegetation. Kudowa's attractions include the famous Chapel of Skulls and the 18th century church and bell tower, 18th century spa buildings and a Lovers Bower on the park Hill. In the district of Pstr¹zna there is the outdoor museum of traditional Sudeten buildings.
Other places worth a visit are K³odzko and Wambierzyce. K³odzko, a 1000 years old town can be explored both above and underground. The suggested start to your visit is the Museum of the K³odzko Land, located in the 17th century Jesuit convent. Adjacent to the convent are the Jesuit college, and the medieval church, with baroque adaptations, containing some medieval sculptures. See also the impressive sandstone bridge, with 6 baroque sculptures, and a Franciscan church on the Sandy Island. The Old Town is well preserved, and can also be explored underground through a series of tunnels that connect deep cellars, about a mile in length. The other feature is the domineering Prussian fortress, with its own system of underground corridors, also open to visitors.
Wambierzyce is a site of the religious cult of the Virgin Mary. It has a truly impressive baroque cathedral, which is lit up at night during Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays. The town was supposed to be a reflection of Jerusalem, hence many strange place names, as well as the Stations of the Cross (the Calvary) which are dotted around. Wambierzyce also boasts a 19th century clockwork Nativity, comprising an impressive 800 figures, 300 of which are animated.
Other places to visit include the gold mine museum in Z³ota Góra (near the Wa³brzych - K³odzko railway line). Rail enthusiasts will note the railway museum in Jaworzyna Sl±ska, which has a collection of steam locomotives, 9 of which are in working order and operate on tourist trains.
Countrygoer Europe: Poland and Central Europe pages